And it Evolved over the Years, the Saree!

The quintessential garment, Saree has been around since 2800 BC originating from the Indus Valley Civilization. It is interesting to trace the journey of such an elegant and versatile piece of cloth. Even though the early days are a bit sketchy but the timeline after the advent of British is prominent. The invaders emphasized on classism through expensive material they pushed down to Indians working for them. The ordinary women were left out of it and could be easily recognized as ones from a less fortunate economic background. Around the 1930s-1950s, the popular ‘Nivi’ style of sarees was in vogue mostly by women from Indian royal families and slowly crept into the saree-styling of ordinary Indian women. The drape was characterised as being wound around then tucked in at the waist and letting the loose end go over the back either free flowing or covering the head.

After our Independence, the years between 1950s to 1970s saw the representation of Saree through Bollywood. As the movie industry flourished, superstars like Nutan, Madhubala, Nargis and Mumtaz were experimenting with fabrics, patterns, weaves and drapes on screen. The common women swiftly started following the latest fashion trend from the big screen. With the introduction of color televisions in the 1970s, women started experimenting with bold, flamboyant colourful drapes. The medium of television has always been a major influencer on our fashion choices.

The 1990s were ruled by film-makers like Yash Chopra, Mahesh Bhatt, Sooraj Barjatiya and David Dhawan whose styles of Saree were all very unique. Each of the film-makers experimented with the drape and helped visualize a wide range of styles. Women in India started defining their individual styles influenced by the film stars. The early 2000s was the age of supermodels, Miss Universe and Miss World winners being dressed by the most popular fashion designers. The subtly risqué chiffon saree slowly transformed to the sensual net saree paired with intriguing blouses. The colour palette was also one of the boldest with women embracing deep dark tones as well as eye popping neon.

2010s saw the advent of ready-made pre-draped sarees to save the new age women the trouble of neatly pleating the saree. A very different look of the Saree evolved to keep up with the well-read, well-travelled, woke women. There was an increasing acceptance of different body shapes and sizes in Sarees. Women no longer felt the need to conform to a specific beauty standard. This paved the way for inclusivity as well as body positivity among women and transgenders who identified as women.

Gradually, the Saree became a symbol of identity. Famous personalities donned Sarees in a certain way that carves out their individuality. But most importantly, as a society, we started to accept sarees in all shapes and sizes. It has been noted that Sarees have had a significant influence in our mindset towards gender diversity and inclusion.

Do check out some eye-popping ones in our collection. Next time you hesitate on wearing a Saree, do head over to our website to help make a bold choice! #saree #drapes #sareesforwomen #urbaneessencesaree

India and her love for Sarees

A diverse land, housing a variety of people hailing from different ethnicities, cultures, and traditions, India is known to be a unique country. Each region has specific set of cultures and traditions contributing to the beauty of India. Saree, considered as one of the traditional Indian Ethnic wear has been worn throughout the country in several styles according to region.

The history of saree dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization. Considered as one of the oldest forms of attire across the world, the saree is worn by several ethnicities all across the world. The history of the arrival of Aryans, Guptas, an empire of Mauryas and Mughal, and other crucial dynasties in India has contributed to the existence of India saree in one or another way. In earlier times during the Mughal dynasty, the fabric of saree was rich, adorned with stunning and royal motifs combined by weavers to make the garment.

Modern day culture has been a result of the age old tradition of wearing Sarees. Let us look at most popular sarees from different regions of our country.

• Taant from West Bengal - A traditional saree from the land of Bengal, made of cotton, is the preferred daily wear outfit of many in Bengal. Light and easy to wear, it generally comes with thick border and beautiful prints.

• Kasavu from Kerala - Kasavu saree is a modern version of settu saree (a mundu - dhoti, a blouse and a stole) and is characterized by a thick golden border, which is woven with threads of real gold. To keep up with the modern consumers, it has diversified to include vibrant colors and synthetic threads.

• Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu - The queen of sarees, kanjeevaram sarees are made from a traditionally woven silk from the region of kanjeevaram. The elegant sarees are rich in colour and texture. Emanate grace as you drape this rarity.

• Bomkai from Odisha - Also known as the sonepuri silk, bomkai saree is a piece of art with ikat, embroidery and intricate thread work, woven into a beautiful nine-yard wonder. Available in silk and cotton, this drape make for a good festive wear.

• Sambalpuri from Odisha - A traditional hand-woven saree, the sambalpuri is a delicate weave of different techniques. The threads are dyed before they are woven; leading to everlasting rich colors.

• Paithani from Maharashtra - The paithani saree is a specialty of Aurangabad. The hand woven silk saree is grand and elegant. Its zari border, fine motifs and the recurrent peacock design is what sets this saree apart.

• Bandhani from Gujarat - The name of the saree is derived from the word, ‘bandhan’, which means ties referring to the process of tie and dye. Both Gujarat and Rajasthan are known for the bandhani saree. However, the weavers of the khatri community of Gujarat are known as the pioneers. The art is still prevalent today and highly sought after.

• Muga from Assam - The muga sarees from Assam are made using a special kind of silk produced by a larvae that feeds on mainly two special leaves. The resulting silk from these larvae is glossy and very durable. The golden threads of the muga are only found in Assam.

• Banarasi from Varanasi - Banarasi sarees are known for their gold and silver zari designs and motifs. Originally woven for royalty, each saree was made with real gold and silver threads. The designing was so intricate that it used to take more than a year to finish weaving one saree.

• Pochampally from Telangana - From the town of Boodhan in Andhra Pradesh, hails the famous pochampally silk. These sarees have intricate motifs, geometric ikat designs and are made of the perfect combination of silk and cotton. These sarees are just too royal and to die for.

• Chanderi from Madhya Pradesh – Chanderi fabric is a mix of Silk, zari and cotton woven together that is lighter than a feather. It is a gorgeous, bright and a fuss free fabric. It is the best choice for first time Saree drapers.

• Konrad from Tamil Nadu - Popularly known as the temple saree, konrad sarees were originally woven for the temple idols. The saree fabric usually has either stripes or checks and a wide border. With motifs of animals and natural elements, the border makes this saree so special.

• Phulkari from Punjab - Phulkari translating to ‘flower work’, comprises thread work in bright hues in the shape of flowers. The phulkari made its first appearance in the legendary heer-ranjha story and has been there ever since. The phulkari embroidery is usually done on either cotton blends or khadi fabrics.

• Chikankari from Lucknow – The famous Chikankari from Lucknow is definitely a must have for your closet. Believed to be introduced by the Mughals, the simple and precise threadwork on the garment, gives it a subtle, classy look. Traditionally done on a muslin cloth, it is now available on almost all kinds of fabrics.

Now that you have read about our rich Saree culture and the different types from all regions of our country, head over to our “Shop” section to choose your style.

Madhubani painting on saree, one of the oldest art of Bihar

The Magic of Saree!

The most unique garment that unites every woman of our country is undoubtedly the 9 yards long Saree. It not only unites women of all region, it is also a common belonging across generations. The older the generation, the more exquisite is the possession. For every traditional occasion, I raid my mother’s cupboard for that perfect piece of cloth. Many a times, I have found my grandmother’s hand-me-downs too. Surprisingly, there is a Saree for every occasion!

One of the oldest forms of unstitched garments in fashion, saree has become more glamorous over time. It is traditionally worn in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nepal. Ever wondered where the term originated from? A Sanskrit term Sati meaning a “strip of cloth” evolved into “Saree” in modern Indian language. Based on ancient Hindu literature, the concept of saree evolved from Satika which means a women’s attire consisting of a lower garment known as “Antariya”, a veil that is worn over the shoulder “Uttariya” and a chest band known as “Stanapatta”. These have evolved into what is known today as “Petticoat”, “Saree” and “Blouse” respectively.

But who wore the first Saree? Its origin can be traced back to Indus Valley Civilization, during 2800-1800 BC in Northwest India. The women of the era wore it as a functional garment. Since then, Indian women love draping themselves in artistic silk, cotton or linen Sarees. It has been the canvas for weavers to manifest their artistic imagination.

Do you know what the first Saree was made of? That's right - Cotton! Cotton is a fabric that has been around for the longest time on Earth. In fact remnants of cotton fabric dated to the fifth millennium BC have been found in the Indus Valley Civilization, as well as in Peru dated back to 6000 BC. Early weavers started experimenting with natural dyes like indigo, turmeric, lac, red madder to create colorful patterns along the Pallu and border. Gradually other natural fibers like silk, ikkat, jute were used to knit Sarees.

Several years later with the foreigners’ arrival, the rich Indian women inspired the artisans to use expensive stones, gold threads to make exclusive saris for their strata, which could identify them easily. The British introduced synthetic dyes, revolutionizing the textile industry. Sarees could now have intricate designs of figures, motifs, flowers along with delicate zardozi, gota, makaish and tilla work that embellished the plain fabric. In the modern world, synthetic fabrics like polyester, georgette and charmeuse are commonly used to weave Sarees.

Being an unstitched garment, it is worn in several styles, each unique to its culture. During the Indus valley civilization, women draped the cotton cloth around their waist and pleated in the center so that they could move around freely. It is known as the “Kachcha style”. With the advent of the Aryans, the draping style changed to “Neevi”. It was very similar to the earlier style. From the Mughal period, originated the ritual of covering the head with the “Pallu”. Today, there are over 100 draping styles, differing across regions.

Saree remains as the most elegant garment of all times. It has been accepted with love across generations. Our aim is to uphold such a significant cultural icon and connect back to our roots.